This volume extends the technical overview of Mughal Patkas in our previous publication, Indian Costumes II: Patkas: A Costume Accessory in the Collection of the Calico Museum of Textiles, 2002. It illustrates in greater detail the basic principles of construction of what are among the most technically and aesthetically remarkable silks ever woven in India. Thread models and close-up photographs are used to illustrate, as clearly as possible, the types of yarn, weave structures and patterning techniques found in these. Two related genres of woven silks from the collection: the Ashavali Saris of Gujarat and a series of "Indo-Iranian" metal-ground fragments, are also included to provide a fuller picture of the seminal but largely ignored silk-weaving tradition of Western India. Introductory essays precede the presentation of each group of textiles. This unique study will be of interest and use to textile researchers and students, and also to the practitioners of the art.
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