Kashi, the luminous one, is the other name of Banaras. In this city of light, each dawn is a miracle. The sky lights up slowly, silently. As the first rays are shattered into gold on the waves of the quietly flowing river, the throng along its banks greets the universe and its creator. Waist deep in water, hundreds of Hindus face the rising sun and, as the dark river begins to glimmer, they cup the now golden water in their hands, raise it to the sun and then ...