Come November, the eighth century town of Pushkar turns into an unusual combination of the spiritual and temporal. Even as its narrow lanes bustle with groups of pilgrims heading for its sacred waters, not far away preparations begin for the world's largest came fair. Pushkar lies seven miles from Ajmer in Rajasthan, on the outskirts of the Great Indian Desert, a harsh, hostile and merciless land of creeping sands, shifting dunes, erratic weather and hot winds. ...