Indian courtly jewellery is among the most sumptuous and finely wrought in the world, while the subcontinent’s folk jewellery abounds in stunningly bold and powerful designs. The wide availability of gemstones, the centuries-old traditions of craftsmanship and the customs of a culture steeped in religion and symbolism all make for a wealth of adornment, to complement the rich textiles and bright colours of Indian dress. The V and A’s collection is unparalleled in its size and range, comprising over 4000 pieces and, owing largely to the scale of collecting in the second half of the nineteenth century, it is uniquely positioned to illustrate the remarkable diversity of materials used in Indian jewellery and the distinctive skills of its makers. It also serves as an important historical record, including examples of pieces made in accordance with traditions long since lost. To interpret the social and symbolic connotations of jewellery is to appreciate the individual pieces on a much deeper level, beyond their undeniable surface beauty to the significance of their purpose, be it worshipping a deity or celebrating a marriage. Likewise, it helps to understand the varied techniques that craftsmen used, some of them – like the kundan technique of stone setting — exclusive to India, and to grasp the impact of European tastes and techniques on Indian jewellery design. Nick Barnard has selected more than one hundred pieces from the V and A’s superlative collection to illustrate his subject. This book features stunning photography and recent research, breaking new ground as well as presenting a collection of rare and ravishing significance.
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