Kashmir and Tibet

Our planet-earth continues to be a veritable paradise for those who search of new adventures and who are fires with an insatiable wander-lust for discovering hitherto undknown lands and the people inhabiting them. During the last century a largte number of European travelers and adventure seekers vied with each other and made most parilour journeys to such inaccessible regions as Kashmir, Laddakh, and Tibet which wre devoide of means of any communication with black and harren mountain ranges all around. These trvellers have left behind most interesting stories of their dangerous journeys. The present volume contains and exciting account of this genre. Its author and his companins-the two British officers of the then Indian Army, struck by wander lust took six months’ leave in 1860 just three years after the sensational Sepoy Mutiny of 1857, and undertook an expedition to Kashmir, Laddakh and adjoining Tibet. The auther’s other sole companion who travelled throughout the journey, was his Hindu bearer, Rajoo who acted to the expedition with the title and role of quarter master general (M.M.G.) During those days the means of communication were most difficult. The railways had yet to start and the air journey had not yet been dreamt of. Leaving Kanpur on 21st May 1860 and traveling by bullock cart, they , they reached Delhi on the 25th May, after braving the heart, dust and other inconvenience of the road. Then further braving the grueling heat and swarms of files at various intermediary stations, they managed to reach Shimla on 29th May 1960. In Shimla they plan their expedition to Kashmir and then on to laddakh. After making another Journey through the hot and dusty plains of Punjab, including Lahore, they reached the territory of the Maharaja of Kashmir an 13th June 1860 at a place known as ‘Bimber’. The author was not very sure about the correct pronunciation of various towns, cityies and other places in India. That explains his mispronouncement of Ambala as ‘Umballa’. Kasauti as’Kussowlie’ Gilgit as Girgit’, Tibet as ‘Tibet’ Aligarh as ‘Allyghut’ and so on and on. In Kashmir, the author had a vast and variedk experience of the scenic grandeur, the geographical features, the beauty of its snow-clad m ountains, shining nevers and smiling lakes. He has given detailed description of the social, political and the administrative apparatus of the Maharaja’s Government. On entering the capital of Kashmir on 1st July, the author describes the lure of the city in these July, the author describs the lure of the city in these words: Our path was occasionally studded with the most super sycamores and lime trees, and as we approached the town we entered a long avenue of poplars, planted as closely together as possible completely hiding all the buildings until close upon them.” After enjoying the hospitalilty of the Maharaja and withnessing a dance of match girls inhis Durber and after enhjoying the tribe to several historical sites and mouments, he left for Laddakh on 27th July accompanied by a larges number of porters andk attendants of course under the supervision of OMG Rajoo. It is the adventures during the journey to Laddakh and the reminiscences of their stay in Laddakh which form the core of the volumes and which makes it one of most exciting accounts of adventures and travel. There is superb description of the Buddhist Monastery of Hemis, the abode of Lamas in Laddakh, which adds to the beauty of the book. Fibnally they )the author and his friend)_ leave Laddakh on 21st August and undertake the return journey by the same old but meeting new and novel adventures, after spending 50 days in Kashmir and Laddakh they return to British territory and reach their duty station of Kanpur on 31st October 60 on the expirty of 6 months leave. Added at the end is supplementary chapter which desis with the religions of Cashmere and Thibet (Tibet) viz Hindusism, Buddhism and Islam as they were then practised bny respective followrskl of these faiths and as withnessed by the author from close quarters. Then at the end are three Appendices describing the Temples of Cashmere, the Mystic sentence of Thibet of Cashmere, the Mystic sentence of Thibet (written in French) and a sketch of the History of Cashmere. From all accounts the present volume is a unique and indispensable eye-witness account of the fabul ours lands of Kashmir,.Ladhakh and Tibet of more than 100 years ago. It comes from the prolific pen of a writer who travelled in these in hospitable regions and difficult mountaneous country when travelling was nothing short of an adventure full of perils. A book of this general must be the coveted possession of all libraries in India and abroad and of all lovers of travel and adventure