Classic Cooking of Avadh

The region designated Avadh is the heart of what was once known as the United Provinces- today’s Uttar Pradesh. The taluqa, literally dependencies, originated when large estates were granted to loyal members of the retinue of Mughal Emperors and, later, the Nawab of Avadh. They were called taluqdar. In course of time, members of these landed aristocracies became identified in the popular mind with the rulers. They were addressed as nawab and raja, even though they did not belong to the true princely lineage. To their credit, the taluqdar lived up to an aristocratic and noble image. In the 19th century and until a few yeas after independence, they took upon themselves the onus of preserving and extending the art of refined living. Although the institution of the Nawab of Avadh was extinguished after 1856, it was the taluqdar who preserved the nazaakat-delicacy, and nafaasat-refinement, of the region. It was during this period that the Moghalia culinary experience was enriched by the infusion of countless indigenous streams. Experimentation and innovation were encouraged. Talent and skills were rewarded and the acknowledged maestros were settled in the Bawarchi Tola-Abode of cooks. Most of these masters established their own culinary schools and performed for the noble patrons. The tradition survives to this day. The Indian kitchen flourished like never before and nowhere did it prosper more than in Avadh. Other cities have epicures and gourmets, but about the city of Lucknow it can be said without exaggeration that it is a city of gourmets. The food of Avadh is well balanced and contrary to popular belief, it is not all meaty. Vegetables have always been given their due. The Lucknavi dastarkhwaan is a veritable kaleidoscope of dishes and ingredients-assembled from the kitchens of the city’s communities and professions. Be they Muslim or Hindu, Shia or Sunni, Kayastha, Khatri, Brahmin, European or Anglo-Indian, pen pusher, shopkeeper, Perfumer, Hakeem or Zamindar. Here two great cuisines-one innovative and the other traditional-have become classic art forms. This book showcases a great tradition.